STEP 2 — INSTALLING THE HEATING ELEMENT

Determine the Type of Heating Element

2.1 You have purchased a Heatizon System that utilizes either Tuff Cable heating element, a 10 guage coated copper cable that is chemical and gasoline resistant, or ZMesh heating element, a 9” or 12” wide woven bronze screen.

Remember: “After Installation Element Test” #1 should be conducted after the heating element has been installed, and “After Installation Element Test” #2 should be conducted following the covering of the heating element and immediately prior to installing the Control Unit.

Tuff Cable
 
ZMesh
Heatizon Systems Tuff Cable is a low-voltage electric radiant heating element that must always be installed in an acceptable heatsink. For this manual, a heat sink means asphalt, concrete, mortar, mud bed, sand or a Heatizon Heatsink Kit. Tuff Cable is designed to be spaced at specific intervals and lengths to produce a specified amount of heat per square foot.
 
Heatizon Systems ZMesh is a low-voltage electric radiant heating element that is designed to go on a wood or concrete subfloor or subroof, and under any nonconductive floor or roof covering.
Installations for Tuff Cable include:
  • concrete or asphalt
  • light-weight concrete or mortar bed
  • Heatizon Heatsink Kit under metal roof covering*
  • existing concrete slab or asphalt
  • sand under pavers or concrete

Spacing between element runs for various applications are:

  • snow melting — 4 “ to 6”
  • roof de-icing under metal roof coverings — 6” *
  • floor warming under hard surfaces — 6”
  • floor warming under other surfaces — 6” to 8”
  • space heating (Must be determined by heat-loss calculations
 
Installation for ZMesh include:
  • under carpet over concrete or wood subfloor
  • under hardwood flooring
  • under tile or marble over wood subfloor or concrete
  • under linoleum/vinyl flooring over concrete or wood subfloor*
  • under non-metallic roofing systems *

Spacing between element runs for various applications are:

  • roof de-icing —2”
  • floor warming under hard surfaces — 2”
  • floor warming for other surfaces — 2” to 6”
  • space-heating
Heat Density: The density per square foot of the Tuff Cable Heating Element is dependent on the spacing between adjacent runs of Tuff Cable, the total length of the Tuff Cable Heating Element, and the size of the transformer. More details about system sizing can be found in the “System Operating Tables” section of this manual
 
Heat Density: The density per square foot of the ZMesh Heating Element is dependent on the spacing between adjacent runs of the ZMesh, the total length of the ZMesh Heating Element, and the size of the transformer. More details about system sizing can be found in the “System Operating Tables” section of this manual.
*Requires special procedures for installation. Please see specific installation procedures.
  *Requires special procedures for installation. Please see specific installation procedures.

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Tuff Cable Heating Element

TUFF CABLE

Note: Tuff Cable AND the connection between Tuff Cable and Cold Lead must always be installed in a acceptable heatsink - a heatsink means asphalt, concrete, mortar, mud bed, sand, or a Heatizon Heatsink Kit. Failure to do so may burn the insulation off of the Tuff Cable, which may result in risk of fire.

Note: To minimize the size of the flux lines or lines of force of any magnetic field given off by the Tuff Cable heating element, always run an even number of lenghts of heating element and begin and end the heating element at approximately the same place.

2.2 General Tuff Cable Installation Instructions:

All applications using Tuff Cable heating element will utilize similar procedures for installing the element. You should also review your specific application installation procedures and jumpering instructions before completing the element installation.

 

a. Beginning at the point where the Cold Lead and Tuff Cable element will be spliced together (see “Rough-In” section of this manual), plan the element layout for each zone. Proper element spacing is determined by heat-loss calculations or heat density requirements and watts per square foot desired.
b. Connect Tuff Cable to one Cold Lead. Lay out the Tuff Cable element in a continuous loop. Make sure the Tuff Cable element never crosses or touches itself, and will never be outside of an approved heat sink. For ease of installation, an even number of Tuff Cable runs are recommended. Allow enough Tuff Cable Heating Element at each end of the run to make the connection to the Cold Lead.
c. Firmly anchor the Tuff Cable element to the subfloor, subroof, or welded wire fabric in three places on 180 degree turns, and two places on 90degree turns by using an adhesive or anchoring system designed for your specific use. See the specific anchoring method instructions for the Tuff Cable application you have selected.
d. Continue with each zone until all zones have been laid out and anchored. Insure that the Tuff Cable element and its insulation are not crimped, cut, or severed. If the Tuff Cable or its insulation is compromised or damaged in any way, the copper wire core will deteriorate over time, and the Tuff Cable element will require repair. Immediately repair all damage to Tuff Cable with an approved Cable Repair Kit (Heatizon Part # CABREPKIT).
e. Connect the end of the Tuff Cable heating element to the Cold Leads with the Heatizon E210BS butt splice connector. See Section 7, “Making the Connection,” for details on how to make this connection.
f. If a temperature/moisture sensor such as the Heatizon M331 or M336 is to be installed in the concrete, mud bed, mortar, or sand bed, it must be in place prior to covering. See the sensor installation instructions for details.
 

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TUFF CABLE
     

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2.3 Tuff Cable In and Under New Pour Concrete
TUFF CABLE
Tuff Cable is the heating element designed to be used in poured concrete installations. It is recommended that Tuff Cable element be installed just prior to pouring the concrete in order to reduce the potential for damage to the Tuff Cable. The precise location of any and all types of joints, walls, cabinets, bathroom fixtures, hand rails, and equipment to be permanently installed must be known prior to the installation of the Tuff Cable in order to avoid damage to the Tuff Cable heating element or heating unnecessary or unwanted areas. Running Tuff Cable under an area where a wall, rail, joint etc. will be installed allows for possible severing of the Tuff Cable by anchoring devices or other penetrations into concrete or by movement of the concrete.
Pre-installation considerations. Tuff Cable element is installed just prior to pouring the concrete. Concrete must be a minimum of 3 ½" in thickness. Heatizon recommends 5" thick concrete (see “A Few Concrete Facts” in the Useful Information Section of this manual. Tuff Cable's maximum efficiency occurs when it is raised 1 ½" to 2" from the slab surface.
If the element is not within 2" from the slab surface, the Heatizon System will either: (1) not heat evenly, or (2) have slower response time and less efficiency. The use of “chairs” under welded wire fabric will raise the Tuff Cable to the desired height prior to and during the concrete pour.
You should refer to and become familiar with Section 2 of this manual, “Tuff Cable Heating Element,” including Section 2.4, “Tuff Cable Jumpers and Connections,” and Section 2.2, “General Tuff Cable Installation Instructions.”
1. Cut the insulation to size and lay it between the concrete forms. For the most efficient use of the Heatizon System use minimum of R-5 insulation below the concrete on grade and to provide perimeter insulation. Review all local and national building codes for recommendation of insulation practices.
 
2. Cut the welded wire fabric to size and lay it between the concrete forms.  
3. Install the "Chairs" (Heatizon Systems Part NI112) under the 4 gauge welded wire fabric (2X2, 4X4 or 6X6). Note: During the concrete pour, constantly monitor the welded wire fabric and Tuff Cable to insure that the element is within 2" from the slab surface.
 
4. Once the area is ready for concrete, use spray paint to mark the location of all joints. Cut welded wire fabric and insulation, then dig the holes for Cold Lead jumpers wherever Tuff Cable will cross through a joint of any kind. Line the hole with gravel.
 
5. Connect one end of the Tuff Cable element to one Cold Lead. See Section 7, “Making the Connection,” for details on how to make this connection. Lay out the element, anchoring it to the welded wire fabric in three places on 180-degree turns and two places on 90degree turns
 
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TUFF CABLE
6. Attach the Tuff Cable heating element to the welded wire fabric every 12 to 18 inches. Attach the Tuff Cable to the welded wire fabric with plastic electrician's tape or plastic wire ties (available from Heatizon Systems). When beginning and ending a zone, leave enough extra element to allow for connection to the Cold Leads. DO NOT INSTALL ANY LENGTH OF TUFF CABLE ELEMENT THAT WILL CAUSE YOUR HEATIZON PRODUCT TO OPERATE AT A SECONDARY AMPER AGE GREATER THAN 96. DO NOT EXCEED THE MAXIMUM LENGTH OF TUFF CABLE ELEMENT REQUIRED TO ACHIEVE THE DESIRED WATTS PER LINEAR FOOT FOR A ZONE.
 
 
7. The Tuff Cable heating element is then connected to the Cold Lead with the Heatizon E210BS butt splice connector. The E210BS butt splice connection must be inside the concrete so that the concrete acts as a heatsink. This connection is to be made in the concrete; no junction box is to be used. When necessary, the Cold Lead can run under the concrete slab for some distance before exiting. It is recommended that the Cold Lead always be encased in PVC conduit and ran in pairs as much as possible.
8. Complete the jumpers under all joints by connecting the ends of the Tuff Cable to Cold Lead jumpers using Heatizon Joint/Mark Jumper Kit (Heatizon Part #JUMPERKIT) . Tuff Cable element should never pass through a concrete expansion joint or any other type of joint or control mark. After the connection is made, fill the hole with sand, and replace the insulation. See complete jumper ing instructions and photos in Section 2.4.
 
9. If a temperature/moisture sensor such as the M331 or temperature sensor such as the M336 is to be installed in the concrete slab, it must be in place prior to the concrete being poured (See the sensor installation instruction for details).
 
10. Continue with the next zone until all zones are laid out and anchored to the welded wire fabric.
 
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A FEW CONCRETE SUGGESTIONS
 
Heatizon Systems is not an asphalt, concrete or pavers expert, but we have a few suggestions that you may wish to discuss with your contractor. We make these suggestions in an effort to increase the likelihood that Heatizon Systems’ high quality Tuff Cable will be surrounded by products that are equal to it in both quality and expected longevity. In addition, we make these suggestions in an effort to reduce the possibility that your Tuff Cable heating element will get damaged or broken by the vertical or horizontal movement of asphalt, concrete, or pavers.
 
Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.
 
Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the thickness of the concrete, the thickness of the insulation, the depth of the aggregate base you will have below the concrete and a 1” sand bed if you elect to install the Tuff Cable below the concrete.
 
Compaction: Once the excavation is complete, it is highly recommended that a great deal of care be given to completely and properly compact the entire area where the asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located.
 
Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of your asphalt, concrete, or pavers Heatizon Systems recommends that a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate be laid over the entire area where the asphalt, concrete, or pavers are to be installed, plus one foot around all edges.
 
Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of your asphalt, concrete or pavers, Heatizon Systems recommends that reinforcement be considered. Most of the time concrete can be reinforced with number 4 gauge welded wire fabric or ½ inch re-bar placed at least 2 inches from the top and bottom surfaces of the concrete.
 
Insulation: Insulation is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snow melt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand ,insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.
 
Maximum Area: Heatizon Systems recommends that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in cracking. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.
 
Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the asphalt or concrete, Tuff Cable should never be allowed to run through it. Always use a Heatizon Systems jumper under any and all joints. Remember, if it is a joint of any kind it must be jumpered under with a Joint/Mark Jumper Kit (Heatizon Part # JUMPERKIT)..
  Thickness: Heatizon Systems always recommends the following thickness be observed:
 

Concrete 5 or more inches
Asphalt 4 or more inches
Pavers 4 or less inches

  Suggested Mix: Heatizon Systems recommends that a six-bag mix with fiber or steel fibers always be used when pouring concrete.
 
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TUFF CABLE
Tuff Cable in new pour concrete
   
 
Sample Driveway and sidewalk layout for two zones of Tuff Cable snow melting systems. Note that jumpers extend the Tuff Cable heating element through all joints and marks.
   
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2.4 Tuff Cable Jumpers and Connections
TUFF CABLE
The example below demonstrates the steps necessary to install Tuff Cable jumpers in new-pour concrete.
 
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TUFF CABLE
 
7. Replace the insulation over the top of the sand.
  8. Complete tying of any Tuff Cable, and trim any
untrimmed wire ties
 

9. Make certain that the painted lines are clear and visible for the concrete contractor so that joints are installed only in the indicated areas.
  10. You are ready for concrete.
See Section 7, “Making the Connections” for more details on how to make this connection.
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TUFF CABLE
 
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TUFF CABLE
1. If Tuff Cable is being installed on wood subfloor, mark adjacent runs of element on the floor with appropriate spacing, usually 6 to 8 inches (but in some cases, may be 4, 10 or 12 inches). Verify specific spacing requirements for your installation with those in your heat loss calculation for space heating.
 
2. Anchor the Tuff Cable using a Heatizon Plastic Clip Kit (Part # PLASCLIPKIT) to hold Tuff Cable to wood subfloors. Never use any attachment that will compromise the Tuff Cable or its insulation in any way. Each 90Ebend and each 180E turn requires two Heatizon Plastic Clips. Heatizon Plastic Clips should be spaced approximately every 18 or 24 inches apart along the length of the Tuff Cable heating element.
 
3. If Tuff Cable is being installed directly on existing concrete, use 1/4" cement drill bit to drill holes 1" deep in every location where a Heatizon Plastic Clip will be located. Install one Tuff Cable Anchoring Plug into each pre-drilled hole by tapping plugs until they are flush with the surface of the concrete. Tuff Cable Anchoring Plugs should fit tightly in pre-drilled holes.
 
4. Make the first connection between one Cold Lead and Tuff Cable by following directions in Section 7, “Making the Connection.” You may need to notch out the floor to accommodate the connection.
 
5. Lay out Tuff Cable on designated chalk lines as planned in the layout. Secure Tuff Cable with Heatizon Plastic Clips by using the following procedures:
 
6. Lay out Tuff Cable on designated chalk lines as planned in the layout. Secure tuff Cable with heatizon Plastic Clips by using the following procedures:
 
If Tuff Cable is being installed directly on a wood sub floor or on top of a mortar bed, Heatizon Plastic Clips can be inserted around Tuff Cable element, and secured to sub floor by hammering nail through anchor ends until both plastic tails are flat against sub floor surface. Repeat with each Heatizon Plastic Clip until all clips are secure.
 
 
   
 
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TUFF CABLE
If Tuff Cable is being installed directly on existing concrete, you should have already completed Step 4. If you have not completed Step 4, do so now. Insert Heatizon Plastic Clips around Tuff Cable element and secure by hammering nail through anchor ends directly into Tuff Cable Plug, until both plastic tails of the clip are flat against and concrete and plug. Repeat with each Heatizon Plastic Clip until all clips are secure.
7. Continue laying out and anchoring Tuff Cable until complete. Make sure end of Tuff Cable returns to the second Cold Lead location to make final connection between Tuff Cable and Cold Lead. Make the connection between the second Cold Lead and end of Tuff Cable by following directions in Section 7, “Making the Connection.”
8. Make note below of how much Tuff Cable was installed for future reference and trouble shooting. Length of element is printed in one-foot increments on the Tuff Cable.
9. Install the temporary paper “Stop! Danger!” signs to advise others not to damage or disturb the Tuff Cable. Remove the temporary signs prior to covering the Tuff Cable with cementitious material.
 
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TUFF CABLE
2.5 Tuff Cable in Sand Bed Under Asphalt, Concrete, Pavers, Stone, or Concrete (4" Maximum Thickness)    
Heatizon Tuff Cable must be embedded in a 1" sand bed and should have approximately 1/2” of sand over and under it. Tuff Cable should never be installed in open air applications, nor directly on top of the rigid insulation. Heatizon recommends insulating where Tuff Cable is being installed to get maximum heat transfer. Rigid insulation that is at least one inch (1") thick R-5 minimum is recommended.
 
     
Step 1. Cover entire area to be heated with rigid 1" thick insulation, and then ½" of sand.
Step 2. Create a layout by determining which direction to run the Tuff Cable. Remember that Tuff Cable must be installed in lines that are parallel to one another. Make sure that both the beginning and end of the Tuff Cable element runs are in the same area as the Cold Leads
Step 3. Beginning on the edge of area where Tuff Cable beginning and end are located, drive spikes into ground to establish widths between the Tuff Cable runs.
 
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TUFF CABLE
Step 4. Place rows of spikes, driving a spike in every 60 inches on each row. Make sure the last spike in each row is at the very end of the area to be heated. Each spike head should remain ½" above the sand.
 
Step 5. Connect one Cold Lead to Tuff Cable, then round the spikes with the Tuff Cable at each end and tie the Tuff Cable to the spikes using plastic wire ties. Make a continual loop of the Tuff Cable, making sure the end of the Tuff Cable returns to the Cold Lead location. Leave an extra 12" of Tuff Cable at the start and finish to make eventual connection to the Cold Leads.
 
Step 6. Make the connections between the two Cold Leads and the beginning and end of the Tuff Cable by following directions in Section 7, “Making the Connection. ” Secure the Cold Leads to the spikes with plastic wire ties.
 
   
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TUFF CABLE
Step 7. Cover Tuff Cable with ½" of sand. Make certain that the Tuff Cable is surrounded by sand. Never allow Tuff Cable to directly touch itself or the insulation. Always make certain that some sand gets between the bottom of the Tuff Cable and the insulation. Great care must be taken to avoid damage to the Tuff Cable.
Step 8. Install asphalt, pavers, stone or concrete (4" maximum).    
Tuff Cable in a Sand Bed Under Brick, Stone or Concrete Pavers
  Tuff Cable in a Sand Bed Under a Concrete or Asphalt Slab
     
 
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TUFF CABLE
2.7 Tuff Cable Retrofit Installation    
Tuff Cable element can be installed in existing concrete, asphalt, and/or pavers. This is accomplished by saw-cutting the concrete, asphalt or pavers with grooves that are ¼ - inch wide by 1 - inch deep spaced on appropriate centers, inserting the Tuff Cable (and backer rod for concrete and pavers only) into the grooves and then filling the grooves.
 
1. Determine the desired element spacing (usually 4 to 6-inch centers for exterior snow/ice melting, depending on elevation and weather patterns of your area, and 6 to 12-inch centers for interior heat and floor warming) and the dimensions of the area to be melted. NOTE: The combination of heated area desired, heat density, and Tuff Cable element spacing will determine the number of Heatizon Tuff Cable zones you will need.
 
2. Lay out the pattern of the Tuff Cable element such that it creates a continuous loop that never crosses or touches itself. Turns may be made by over cutting the lines at various angles. For example, two 90 degree cuts will create parallel paths
 
3. Mark the determined Tuff Cable locations on the top of the asphalt or concrete with a chalk line.
 
4. Spray the chalk lines with clear lacquer to Prevent the chalk line from washing away.
 
5. Saw cut each chalk line ¼" wide by 1" deep for the Tuff Cable element and ½" wide by 1½" deep for Cold Leads. Round outside corners of cuts and remove any sharp edges to avoid damage to Tuff Cable.
 
 
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TUFF CABLE
6. Thoroughly clean the sawcut cracks with a high power pressure washer to remove all dust and debris from the grooves. Allow to dry.
 
7. Make one connection between the Cold Lead and Tuff Cable. Lay the Heatizon Tuff Cable element in the bottom of the saw cuts leaving an extra 12" of element at the end for eventual connection to the Cold Lead.
 
8. The Cold Lead to Tuff Cable element connection is made by following directions in Section 7, “Making the Connection.” This connection must be embedded in the concrete, asphalt or pavers.
 
9. Fill all cuts with sealant for asphalt retrofits, or backer rod and sealant for concrete and paver retrofits, in accordance with filler manufacturers recommended procedures.
 
 
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TUFF CABLE
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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TUFF CABLE
2.8 Tuff Cable Heatsink Kit Installation for Roof, Steps, Decks, and Subfloor
Heatizon Heatsink Kit
   
1 1.5” X 60” X ¼” Heatsink Starting Strip
5 5 ” X 60” X ¼” Heatsink Middle Strips
1 3” X 60” X ¼” Heatsink Ending Strip
2 3” X 35.5” X ¼” Heatsink Origination Strip
1 5” X 29” X ¼” Heatsink Origination Cap
1 3” X 5” X ¼” Heatsink Large End Cap
1 1.5” X 5” X ¼” Heatsink Small End Cap
100 Heatsink Screws
30 Black Tube Clamps
30 Roofing Nails
13lbs Premixed Mortar
1 Putty Knike.Trowel
1 5 Gallon Plastic Bucket
1 Mortar Mixer Drill Attachement
  Tuff Cable Heatsink Roof deicing
Optional Heatsink Center Cable Protector Kit
6 1.5" X 60" Tuff Cable Protector
30 Heatsink Screws
 
Optional Heatsink Origination/End Cable Protector Kit
3 1.5" X 35" Tuff Cable End Protector
10 Heatsink Screws
 
US Patent 7,071,446B1  
 
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TUFF CABLE
Sample Tuff Cable in a Heatsink Kit Designs
Use these diagrams to assist you in connecting multiple Heatsink Kits to accomodate the specific design and square footage of the project

Note: The connection between Tuff Cable and Cold Lead must always be embedded in the Heatsink Kit.

SINGLE
Standard Heatizon Heatsink Kit

ADD LENGTH
A Standard Heatizon Heatsink Kit can be extended to any length by simply inserting additional 5" X 60" middle strips (end to end) from additional Heatsink Kits in between the Progination Strip and Origination Cap. Run Heatizon Systems Tuff Cable through the 1" spaces as shown.

1/2" Gap

ADD WIDTH
A Standard Heatizon Heatsink Kit can be extended to any width by simply inserting additional Heatsink Kits (or portions) next to it. Be sure to leave a 1/2" gap in between each additional kit, and run Heatizon Systems Tuff Cable through the 1" spaces as shown.

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Once the layout design has been finalized and the starting place chosen on the eaves, valleys, steps, deck or floor, begin the installation of the Heatizon Systems Heatsink Kit as follows:
 
TUFF CABLE
1. Install one 1” X 60” X ¼” Heatsink Starting Strip to the sub-roof, sub-step, or sub-deck, with enough of the provided wood screws or construction adhesive to secure in place; For floors, discard all 1” x 60” Heatsink Starting Strips and begin with 3” x 37.5” Heatsink Starting Strip or 5.5” x 60” Heatsink Middle Strips in the center of the room.
 
2. After leaving a 1” gap for the Tuff Cable install one 5.5” X 60” Heatsink Middle Strip with enough of the provided wood screws or construction adhesive to secure in place.
 
3. After leaving a 1” gap for the Tuff Cable, install a second 5.5” X 60” Heatsink Middle Strip. Repeat as necessary to cover the entire area to be warmed or snow and ice melted
 
4. After leaving a 1” gap for the Tuff Cable install one 3” X 60” Heatsink Ending Strip
 
5. At the end of the Heatsink or the point where the Tuff Cable will make two 90 degree turns and return back toward the point of beginning, leave a 1” gap for the Tuff Cable then install one 3” X 37.5” Heatsink Origination Strip.
 
6. At the beginning of the Heatsink, or the point where the Cold Leads will connect to the Tuff Cable, leave a 1” gap for theTuff Cable and install one 5.5” X 31.5” Heatsink Origination Cap, one 7.75” X 1” Heatsink Small End Cap, and one 7.75” X 3” Heatsink Large End Cap.
 
7. Connect one Cold Leads to one end of the Tuff Cable as shown in Section 7, “Making the Connection.” Install the Tuff Cable into the 1" gaps following the instructions in this manual. Secure the Tuff Cable to the roof deck or subfloor with the plastic clips and screws provided. Plastic clips should be used to hold the Tuff Cable below the surface of the Heatsink strips.
 
 
8. Connect the second Cold Lead to the Tuff Cable as shown in Section 7, “Making the Connection.”
 
9. Once the Tuff Cable has been installed into the gaps and the Tuff Cable connections are completed and in the 1" gaps, completely fill all 1” gaps with the provided filler so that they are level with the top of the Heatsink Strips. Make certain that all Tuff Cable and all splices between the Cold Leads and the Tuff Cable are completely covered by the provided filler.
 
10. Install the optional Tuff Cable Protectors over the Tuff Cable using the provided screws. Caution: Do not allow the provided screws or anything else to damage the Tuff Cable or Cold Leads.
 
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TUFF CABLE
11. Note and document the location of all Tuff Cable runs so that its location may be marked in Step Thirteen below.
 
12. Do not allow the Heatsink to get wet. Completely cover the Heatsink and Tuff Cable with Ice and Water Shield (Heatizon Part Number NI1214 or EPDM (Heatizon part Number NI133) when using on roofs. A similar waterproofing is required for exterior stairs and decks.
 
13. Using a chalk line and the Tuff Cable run locations noted in Step Eleven above, mark the location of all Tuff Cable on the top of the Ice and Water Shield, EPDM, or other waterproofing product so that nails, screws, or other devices will NOT penetrate or damage the Tuff Cable element. Spray the chalk lines with clear lacquer to protect the chalk lines and reduce the potential that they may be removed by moisture.

Tuff Cable in a Heatizon Heatsink Kit should use only the following Transformers: 1kVA, 2kVA, 3kVA, 2x2kVA, or 2x3kVA

 
 
 
 
 
IMPORTANT! Record the number of feet of Tuff Cable Element that you have installed for each zone here:
   
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